Do I Need Protein or Moisture? Understanding Hair Texture, Porosity & More

One of the most common questions I get is: "How do I know what my hair needs—protein or moisture?"

And the answer isn’t always simple. There are many variables that affect how your hair reacts to products, and why something that worked wonders yesterday may flop today.

Here’s a breakdown to help you figure out what your hair is asking for—and how to choose the right products.

💡 Things That Affect Product Performance

1. Weather Conditions
   Dew points, humidity, rain, snow, wind, temperature—all of it matters. High dew points = more moisture in the air (hello, frizz!), while low dew points = your hair may feel drier and need extra emollients.

2. How You Treat Your Hair
   Heat styling, color treatments, sleeping on cotton vs. satin—these all impact moisture retention and overall health.

3. Indoor Environment
   Is your home or office dry or humid? That constant exposure affects how your hair holds moisture throughout the day.

4. Hair Texture
   Think of it on a 1–10 scale:

   • 1 = Very fine

   • 10 = Very coarse
     Most people fall in the 3–8 range, but many misjudge their texture based on feel. For reference, my hair is a 4 (normal to fine)—a surprise even to me!

5. Hair Porosity

   • Low porosity: Hair feels smooth and resists water/product absorption (water beads on it).

   • High porosity: Hair feels rough or bumpy and soaks up moisture and product easily—but also loses it quickly.

   • Normal porosity: Somewhere in between.

6. Hair Density
   Do you have thick hair (lots of strands) or is your scalp easily visible?

7. Wave/Curl Pattern
   This affects product choice, especially for stylers. Tighter curls typically need more moisture and control.

8. Product Quality
   The gentleness or harshness of your regular shampoo or styling routine matters. Even a “sulfate-free” cleanser can be too harsh for some.

9. How Often You Wash/Style
   Daily washing or frequent product layering can affect buildup, protein overload, or dryness.

10. Water Temperature
    Washing with warm or hot water can turn your regular conditioner into a deep treatment by helping the hair shaft open and absorb more product. I find this also helps glycerin work in the moment—especially if it’s rinsed out before styling.

🔍 Protein vs. Moisture: What Does Your Hair Need?

Assuming you have healthy, undamaged, normal porosity hair, here’s a general guide based on texture:

Texture Scale:

📸 Visual Reference: Hair Texture in Action

I’ve included photos comparing different hair strands for texture reference:

• 1–2: Very fine

• 4: My hair (normal to fine)

• 6–8: Coarser types

While it’s tough to see the differences in photos, feeling them makes it clearer. I’ll continue to update this with better visuals as I go!

✨ Final Thoughts: There’s No One-Size-Fits-All Routine

I change my products based on:

• The weather

• How my hair feels each day

• What styling I’m doing

I test products constantly and wash/condition 1–2 times a day (yes, really!). So my hair takes a beating. That said, the best results come when I listen to my hair and adjust my routine accordingly.

For example:

• Low dew points (Fall/Winter): I lean on products with emollients, like butters and oils.

• High dew points (Spring/Summer): I reach for humectants like glycerin + a good gel to seal it all in.

Some days you’ll nail it. Others, not so much. That’s the journey of curls. But with the right knowledge, you’ll get better at picking the right tools for the job.